MyC
New Contributor

How do I create the right habitat conditions for a leopard gecko?

[ Edited ]

My daughter just got gecko a few days ago. (Early X-Mas present) We bought him and the Zilla Basic Desert Kit, calcium supplement, water bowls, couple deco. We read the care sheets/online. I'm confused, for the blk light does that stay on 24-7 or just at night? For the uv light that only stays on in day? Besides this we can't seem to get the temp/ humidity to stay on right degrees!! We were considering a under tank heater? How often does he need crickets/eat?over last few days have put in 2 separate dozens n they are gone!! Pls help need suggestions🤔

4 REPLIES
Community Manager

Re: Leopard Gecko

Hi MyC. Congratulations again on the new gecko and thanks for sharing your question. I'm going to do a little research on this and check in with one of our animal care speicialists. I'll check back in with some more information!

New Contributor

Re: Leopard Gecko

IF YOU HAVENT FOUND ANY RIGHT ANSWERS YET YOU CAN FACEBOOK UNDERGROUNDREPTILES THE ARE GOOD AND GIVE YOU BETTER INFO IF YOU NEED . BUT UV IS ONLY FOR DAYLIGHT IT GIVE THEM THAT SUN LIKE NUTRIENTS THAT THEY NEED . BUT NONE OF MY REPTILES USE A UV BECAUSE I ALWAYS GIVE THEM THE FOOD DUSTED IN THE CALCIUM POWDER . AND IF YOUR USING A ZILLA THERMOMETER THOSE THINGS DONT WORK THAT GOOD THEY START TO MANFUNCATION AFTER COUPLE WEEKS . GECKOS OF ANYTYPE FROM MY RESEARCH IT EVERY 2 - 3 DAYS AND ALL DEPENDS ON YOU, CAN ALSO FEED THEM EVERYDAY . HOPE THIS HELPS
Community Manager

Re: Leopard Gecko

[ Edited ]

Hi again, MyC. Can we please get the age of your gecko, as well as the temperatures you are currently reaching?

Since leopard geckos are nocturnal, you do not need to use a UV light.  If you are using one because it came in with the kit, you can leave it on during the day for 10 – 12 hours.  You should place the heat lamp(s) on one end of the habitat to create a thermal gradient (warm on one end and cool on the other).  Depending on the temperature in the habitat (it should reach about 90 – 95 in the basking area and 78 – 80 on the cool end), you can use the nocturnal bulb as needed in conjunction with the daylight bulb, however, just as it is warmer in the day and cooler in the night based on the sun rising and setting, you do not need to keep heat lights on 24 hours a day.  If you decide to use an undertank heater in conjunction with the lights, make sure it is placed on the warm end.  You can also purchase a thermostat to help maintain the correct temperature in the habitat.  

As for feeding the leopard gecko, not knowing if this is a baby or an adult, you can offer a baby leopard gecko 2 – 3 gut loaded crickets a day or a large one 4 – 6 gut loaded crickets a day.  Make sure they are no larger than the space between the gecko’s eyes and you are sprinkling a calcium supplement on them daily and giving a vitamin supplement twice a week.  You can also feed them  meal worms, wax worms, calci-worms, etc which provide a little more sustenance for hungry geckos. 

We hope this helps, and hope to hear back from you soon!

Highlighted
New Contributor

Re: How do I create the right habitat conditions for a leopard gecko?

I recently have bought two baby lepord geckos myself and since then have done days and days of research. I also bought the Zilla desert kit for mine. Don't put sand that's the most thing you can do it can cause them to have impaction in their tummy and die. The kit also comes with a brown at the bottom I've tried using that but find that toes and Nails can get stuck and damaged so I cover it with paper towel which is what most breeders use. I leave the white light on all day and turn it off around the time sun goes down and turn on the black light. They're nocturnal so they are most active at night ( I feed mine around 9:30) for baby's they should eat every day 2-3 crickets ( when I first got mine home he ate about 6 crickets a day for 2 weeks until he put on proper weight) now he eats about 2. You must also provide calci powder with d3 so they don't develop bone problems which is common if there not provided calci. Small shallow bowl of water. Hide and humid hide which helps it shed. In my case I can't fit a humid hide in the cage so every once in awhile I will put him in a small plastic tub filled up to the belly of the leopard gecko with water at 92 degrees can not be above 96 degrees this will help them shed. If they don't shed there skin fully it can cause problems and they can loose toes. They'll eat crickets mealworms ,superworms, wax worms once in a while for a treat. Mine won't eat any of the worms so there only on crickets which I gut load by feeding the crickets oranges, tomato's stuff with vitimans in it.
Hope this helps a little.. I was clueless when I bought mine..Petco gave me some bad advice such as putting them on calci sand which after much reachearch I found is the worst thing you can do to them. So be careful on where you get advice from. I would say whatever you have a question about go online and google it and compare the info to breeders and people that have had leos for awhile. There's alit of info out there.
Also if handled properly and tamed they can become great pets..at first mine were really skittish but not they want to come out and be held or walk around and look at things.
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